An architectural delight in Prague

Architecture is inextricably woven with travel. Apart from landscapes and natural vistas, majority of iconic landmarks and tourist attractions are buildings. Buildings are inherent in cityscapes and urban landscapes. Moreover, cityscapes are draw cards for travellers in their itinerary for adventure - whether its churches, bridges, museums, hotels or even some retail therapy.

Prague, like most cities in Europe, is a city of visual delight. In preparation for the trip, I have browsed through numerous travel and photography monographs on the city's architecture that seeing firsthand Prague's landmarks was awe-inspiring. As an architect and a bibliophile, akin to reading and turning the actual pages of an interesting book, seeing these enthralling edifices is a tactile experience.

Art Nouveau, also known as Style Moderne or Jugendstil is an architectural style which flourished in major European cities between 1890 and 1914. My interest in this movement was through studying the works of American architects Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright and Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. In Prague, the movement was led by Czech painter and decorative artist Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939).

It was surprising to me that there are quite a large number of remarkable and well-preserved buildings in Art Nouveau style in Prague. I learned that as there haven't been any destruction/reconstruction programs in Prague as in much of western Europe, nearly all the original Art Nouveau buildings have remained. However, these buildings remain unknown to tourists as they mostly pay attention to the popular Prague Castle and Charles Bridge. But if you know what to look out for, the Old Town, the Jewish Quarter and Wenceslas Square are dotted with Art Nouveau style buildings. Looking up these buildings will treat oneself to beautiful architectural details and decorations. Perhaps the most well-known building is the Municipal House at Namesti republiky 5.

I stayed in one of the first Art Nouveau buildings in Prague which is just a few metres from the Municipal House and the Powder Tower. The former Hotel Central built 1898-1900 is now the K+K Hotel Central at Hybernská. This 4*-boutique hotel in the city centre of Praque is located within a short walking distance from the Main Train Station (Hlavní nádraží) and Old Town Square. Designed by Bedřich Ohmann (1858-1927) and his students Bedřich Bendelmayer (1872-1932) and Alois Dryák, unique Jugendstil architectural details adorn this very stylish hotel.

Although the well appointed hotel displays a contemporary interior design with modern amenities, the Art Nouveau details have been preserved particularly on its front facade, the delicate details of metal railings, ornate light fixtures, curved mouldings of the breakfast restaurant which used to be a theatre hall c 1900 and the glass elevator.

Apart from its proximity to the sights of the Old Town Square, this architectural gem will certainly delight the architectural traveller.

Myself for company

Why travel alone? Numerous books and blogs have extolled the wonders of solo travel. Others have said that it's the ultimate in self-indulgence and the perfect time for deep introspection.

For me, travelling solo is empowering. Perhaps, it's true that we do take on different masks or simply free ourselves from our usual persona - "that traveling almost strips one from character".



Alain de Botton succinctly pointed out, "It seemed an advantage to be traveling alone. Our responses to the world are crucially molded by the company we keep, for we temper our curiosity to fit in with the expectations of others. They may have particular visions of who we are and hence may subtly prevent certain sides of us from emerging… Being closely observed by a companion can also inhibit our observation of others; then, too, we may become caught up in adjusting ourselves to the companions questions and remarks, or feel the need to make ourselves seem more normal than is good for our curiosity (The Art of Travel, p252)."

Perhaps the challenge of being a lone traveler and not beholden to a travel companion or a schedule, heightens the travel experience and allows for more discovery of oneself outside the confines of the secure and comfortable bubble of the regular day-to-day activities. For me, everything seems more beautiful, taste buds are on overdrive as everything tastes better. Having a receptive mindset, being alone seem to magnify the vividness of the travel adventure. You tend to absorb every detail and sensation - soak in everything about the experience.

Of course, there would always be that occasional snippets of times when company is sought particularly when the experience is best shared - such as gawking at an impressionist painting you didn't think you'll ever see in person or standing before magnificent architectural edifices you only read about, more so when spine-tingling vistas and landscapes unfold before your very eyes.

But it seems that the benefits of solo travel outweigh the drawbacks. Mistakes and travel faux pas are definitely your own - and I certainly had my share (but that's for another post). However, for all the goof ups, the triumphs are all the more sweeter.

The scenic Romantic Road

On this day last year, 16 February, was Shrove Tuesday. It was also the 10th day of my European sojourn and I found myself in Munich. It was the 9th stop in my amazing race around Europe. Ten solid days of the grey and bleak wintry weather. Having left Adelaide at the tail end of the southern hemisphere summer, I was by then missing seeing the sun and Australian blue skies. The novelty of experiencing snow was starting to wear off.

But motivating myself and thinking positively that the snowfall is surely bound to stop at some point, I crossed my fingers that what's on offer for the day will be special. This was the leg of the trip where I drove from Munich via the Romantic Road to Schwangau, Rothenburg ob der Tauber and ending in Frankfurt.

I left the hotel at 6.45am for the two hour drive to Schwangau, Bavaria southwest of Munich to make the pre-booked 10.50am tour of the King's Castles*. My road trip adventure began with trying to get out of the city which took me the better part of the hour just to get on to Autobahn A 96 / E54. Much as I loved the Mercedes Benz A Class rental, the built-in GPS would only indicate which street I was on and a compass for orientation. I had to call on my navigational skills, rely on the Hertz free map with challenging text and font size and the printed details of the route and directions I downloaded from Google Map (Did I mention printed in A5 paper size?). I got lost 3 times including taking the wrong ramp at B2R and finding myself on the wrong direction while at the busy Autobahn which meant that I was heading north back towards Munich again! I wanted an adventure - I got an adventure.

By 8am, I was finally on the way but panic started to set in again as I couldn't go past 80kph due to heavy fog. I was starting to worry that I'll definitely miss claiming those already-paid-for tickets in time for the tour of the two castles. Then about 65kms into the trip and getting on to the start of the Romantic Road (B17) on the way to Landsberg am Lech, (drum roll)... the sun came out and woahh...the postcard perfect winter landscapes started to unfold.



After 10 gloomy days, I saw the blue skies and the winter scenes of the Bavarian countryside were awe-inspiring. I remember thinking that if it's this beautiful in winter what more in autumn or spring (mental note for next trip). I was treated to so much visual delight and teasing glimpses of the quaint and picturesque towns along the route that I found it annoying I was pressed for time and not have the luxury to stop to take it all in.

Then by 10am, I saw the Neuschvanstein Castle. And there she was - dream-like and perfectly perched on the mountain slopes. With goosebumps, tingles down my spine and a lot of oohs and aahs (and screeching!) reverberating within the confines of the car, the day was certainly going to be perfect.



I left Hoheschwangau at 4.30 in the afternoon after a fun-filled and a full 8GB compact flash memory card! JOY! I continued with the drive along the scenic Romantische Strasse to Rothenburg ob der Tauber for an overnight stay.

Here are some of images:

St Coloman Church along Coloman Strasse


Hohenschwangau Castle


Neuschvanstein Castle


*Serendipitously, 2010 was the first time the Castles were open to tourists on a Shrove Tuesday.

My Amazing Race

A year ago this weekend, I took the plunge and went on my biggest solo travel trip to date. My almost month long European adventure began on the 5th of February 2010. The trip was 24 days to be exact including air travel and an overnight and full-day stay in Singapore to visit and catch up with my bestfriend and her family.

As a methodical planner, creating and planning the vacation/adventure of my dreams took over a year and the four months prior to the trip was spent ironing out details.



The preparation and planning was not an easy feat. In 2009 much of the world was in the grips of the financial crisis - the ominous effects of the worldwide economic downturn hanging in the air. With the currency exchange rates pretty much a deal breaker, I decided early on to experience off season travel and plunge into wintry Europe. The major drawback, of course, is the weather - made more graphic by the horrible stories around Christmas time by the experiences of snowbound travellers, particularly in airports and transport hubs. Hence, the decision to do the trip during the tail-end of winter - in February 2010. Sounds childish but I actually looked forward to seeing winter landscapes.

Pouring over maps, travel guides, travel videos and travel books, I locked in my travel budget and booked my 'open-jaw' ticket to Europe in August 2009 - fly in to Amsterdam via Singapore and fly out from Paris back to Adelaide via Singapore.

By the end of September 2009, I was able to work out the final itinerary I am most happy with:
Singapore * Amsterdam - Zaanse Schans * Bruxelles - Cologne * Berlin * Prague * Vienna * Salzburg * Munich * Romantic Road - Landsberg, Schwangau, Füssen, Augsburg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Würzburg * Frankfurt * Zurich * Rome * Florence * Venice * Paris - Angers - Paris * Singapore



Phew...I know, I know - too much to take on travelling solo and on such a tight schedule!

My own Amazing Race around Europe! But I tell you, if I'm to sum up the trip in one word - it was empowering. After the trip, I felt I can pretty much do any thing I set my mind to.

Tour Down Under

Having missed this year's 2011 Tour Down Under in Adelaide, I wasn't able to complete my photo-chronicle of Lance Armstrong's participation in the cycling race. Armstrong's attendance in the tour has come to an end with this year as his last.

Not that I know anything about professional cycling but in 2009, I was one of those who braved the sweltering Adelaide summer for some photo opportunities. In 2010, I once again took to my favourite spot on Montefiore Hill in North Adelaide to replicate those 2009 race images.

These images of Lance Armstrong were from last year's Santos Tour Down Under:

Happy New Year!

Happy new year's greetings from Melbourne!

New year, new home city and new job! I have 'seized the day' and relocated to a new city to take on new work in research. My usual annual 'taking stock of things' and of looking forward to what's in store for the new year will take on a different flavour this time - one that I hope will be exciting and a whole new adventure.

Looking back, 2010 was certainly memorable and packed with milestones accomplished (along with a fair share of frustrations) which I have yet to chronicle bits of it here. It is convenient that this blog is 'in-hindsight' (hehehe). I hope everyone has already drawn up those usual lists (to do, wishlists and goals) to arm themselves for the year? Notwithstanding these lists, CARPE DIEM.

Have a wonderful 2011 everyone!

...then at sundown

After doing the sunrise shots, I had the opportunity of capturing some amazing sunset images. South Australia's coast along the western shore of Fleurieu Peninsula affords perhaps one of the best sunsets in the world. The jetties that dot the shoreline of Gulf Saint Vincent offers dramatic vistas with the setting sun as backdrop.

Taking a little road trip with two photobuddies, our destination was the coastal town of Willunga, about 50 kms south of Adelaide CBD. This town has one of the iconic locations for amazing sunsets - the remains of the old Port Willunga jetty, c 1910.

With daylight savings time still in effect, sunsets would be late than usual giving us ample time to leave work, beat the heavy Friday traffic and be at the location for the shoot. We knew (and hoped) that the sunset would be perfect.



The panoramic view of the few remaining piles of the old Port Willunga jetty did not disappoint. From the top of the cliff, a breathtaking view of the sunset greeted us.



The Port Willunga jetty, c 1868-1913
The few remaining piles are what is left of the jetty constructed in 1867 located 400 metres south of the original jetty built in 1853.

Out on a Friday night chasing light? - truly well worth it.

At first light

Dragging myself out of bed before sunup especially on a weekend is such a feat. With the start to autumn and the now chilly mornings, I would rather sleep in. Who wouldn't? But having longer nights and with end to daylight savings still two weeks away, sunrise in Adelaide would be around 7am (CST). Still pretty much not a big ask to roll out of bed for some early morning photographic adventure.

Inspired by Christina Dickson's entertaining narrative on sunrise photography tips, over the weekend, I found myself setting up on top of Montefiore Hill in North Adelaide well before daybreak for my first sunrise photographs.



For awhile there, I thought the seemingly dark clouds on the south-west will usher in a downpour. Not armed with an umbrella to protect the gear, I braced myself being caught in a rather unpleasant predicament. But all's well - though it did rain, it was light and did not last long to entirely ruin my outing.

Then, in Christina's words, "I smile..."



Out early in the morning, loss of sleep - truly well worth it.

Sizzling Hot

Adelaide continues to sizzle this week - though not with hot sporting events within and around the city but scorching record 40-plus degree temperatures. The furnace-like temperatures across most of South Australia and Victoria started early this week on Australia Day. In Adelaide, Australia Day temperatures maxed at 36.6°C and soared yesterday to 43°C to be the hottest day in five years in the city.

Today's maximum temperature in the city of 45.7°C was likewise one for the record books. Yet no cool change is in sight with a forecast of a 6-day run of 40deg-temperatures. A similar weather forecast holds for Melbourne, where the gripping final games of the Australian Open are playing out. As the grand slam tournament is typically held in the middle of the Australian summer, the games are noted for its hot days. Thus, it is the only major tournament in the world that has an extreme heat policy. Melbourne's temperature soared to 41°C today which called for the policy to be enacted for the first time.

It was fortunate that last week's Tour Down Under in Adelaide experienced relatively milder temperature conditions which were ideal both for the cyclists and spectators.



I shared in the 'Lance Fever' that gripped the city. The record attendance to this year's tour events, up by 35% from last year, was certainly due to the Armstrong factor.

In the final Stage 6 of the race held in the city, I was one of the 144,000 spectators who lined the Adelaide streets despite the sweltering 35°C heat to catch a [g]Lance of perhaps the biggest name in the sport - essentially a brand. Apparently, this record number represented the most for any single sporting event in Australia. Not knowing anything about professional cycling races, I amazed even myself that I patiently stayed for the whole 18 laps of the stage just to be able to take a picture of Lance Armstrong. My patience was wonderfully rewarded at Lap 16 when I eventually captured the images I wanted:





Of course, with full cognition, these images were to be had at a price - painful sunburnt arms! Livestrong!

Karen Cheng did an enlightening interview with Lance Armstrong and sheds light on what motivates this great athlete (as seen in Shai Coggins).